OIL INJECTION

EP 80/90 oil is required for both gearboxes and the final drive and one litre should, just about do them all. I started with the reversing gearbox. I poured a quantity of oil into a clean jar and sucked up 100ml into my new syringe and attached the tube. I slowly pumped it into the box, when the syringe was empty I went back to the jar and pulled another 25ml into the syringe and that also was pushed into the box. Hardly a drop needed to be wiped up after I had tightened the filler bolt. I realised that I could have shortened the tube, but I thought it best to wait until all the boxes had been filled and then I would know exactly how much tubing each one needed.

For the final drive I didn't need to use the tubing as I had access, for the present, from the open rear end of the car. I used two syringe fulls before the oil started to dribble out of the fill hole, that's the only way you can tell when the oil is at the correct level, so a little bit of mopping required.

I have still to drain the main gearbox, but I will leave that until the engine is running and I can warm the oil prior to draining.

Final job for the day was to trim the aluminium dash as it was slightly proud of the scuttle in a few sections. I marked around the top of the scuttle with a marker pen onto he back of the dash. Using the angle grinder I cut back to the black line, the dreadnought file followed by emery paper left a neat edge.

I refitted the dash and inserted the rubber P strip marking where the bolt holes needed to be punched.
That done, dash and strip was bolted up, leaving, I think, a smart finish. Just got to attach the bottom of the dash to a cross member and I am going to use some short lengths of ali tubing as spacers, but not today

SPOT ON

Yesterday I got to open my belated birthday present that my lovely wife bought me.

I actually saw just what I wanted whilst on holiday, on Ebay. "Buy It Now" for £80; a Raydyot Pillar Mounted Spot Light. I've been watching these on auctions, but have not been near a computer when bidding came to an end. The good ones sell for around a £100, so this one seemed a bargain. I had it delivered to my step daughter and yesterday I found, to my delight, it is as good a bargain as I had hoped.

It was still in it's original box with fitting instructions and has obviously never been used, the chrome is spotless and the cable untrimmed. These lights used to be fitted to Vauxhall Crestas and Ford Zodiacs, I don't think Morgan three wheelers ever sported them, but I think it will help to give Marjorie a classic vintage look. I hope my Build Buddy, Pete, doesn't mind.as I know he has fitted one to his car, but imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and it it too good a look not to try and copy.

In the post today, arrived the 100ml syringe and tube, again ordered fro Ebay, just the job for getting oil into tucked away filler holes, my wife asked me to get it out of her sight as it brought back uncomfortable memories.

The other job done to day was to trim the mesh grill so that it would clear the rocker breather pipes and trial fit it to the engine cowl. Just a couple more adjustments to be made and I will be able to permanently glue it to the cowl.

TICKETY BOO

Another two jobs ticked off the job list. The black painted brackets were firmly re-attached to the bottom of the reversing gearbox and the brackets in turn bolted onto the plinth. The ends of both shafts were attached to the box, I used the handle of a hammer passed through the spokes of the rear wheel to stop the shaft turning whist I used an imperial allen key to tighten the bolts (Arthur told me that for some strange reason imperial sized bolts were in use here). I then ensured that the box was set square on the plinth and securely tightened the four bolts.

 

By turning the prop shaft I could now select all of five gears and most importantly get back to neutral, passing a couple of false neutrals on the way, albeit all rather clonkily, but that's the same on the bike without the engine running. That's really good news, I can now tighten all the gear change linkages. Finally I applied the grease gun to all the nipples on the universal joints and I have also splashed out £1.56 on Ebay for a 100ml syringe, complete with 1m of thin tubing so that I can fill the box with 125ml of gear oil.

Whilst the side panel was removed I transferred the position of the exhaust clamp bolts from inside left to outside right and drilled the first of the six holes through the exposed chassis upright, as I had hoped, much easier doing it this way. The pipe being a easy fit on the header pipe allowed me to turn it to the correct angle and the remaining five holes were soon drilled and the pipe clamped to the chassis.

I will temporarily re-attache the side panel and J strip, just to keep them out of harms way as I don't want to permanently fix them until I am satisfied that I no longer need full access to the cockpit area. A good tidy up of tools and bits and pieces is definitely called for.

LIES, LIES AND MORE LIES

The lies were mine, bigging up the job of attaching the reversing gearbox. I'll explain, starting from the back end.

I decided to trial fit the box and shafts, before I painted the attachment brackets. First to be bolted on to the rear bulkhead, was the, self aligning bearing, this supports the rear prop shaft where it connects to the shaft which runs up inside the right side of the swing arm, which in turn connects to the final drive box, which turns the rear driving wheel, still with me? I had to trim back the rubber shroud, leaving, I hope just enough protruding through the bulkhead to stop water and dirt from getting in.

 I then passed the end of the prop shaft through the bearing, but couldn't get it to locate into the final drive shaft, so I unbolted the bearing and slipped it over the prop shaft and then located the splines with those of the final drive shaft. Now I was able to bolt the big bearing back to the bulkhead.

I then attempted to bolt the front end of this shaft to the reversing box, which was loosely positioned on it's plinth, the first two bolts went in, but I couldn't get the next two to located when I realised that the holes were not concentric, I turned the shaft a quarter turn and all the bolts located, silly me. I then turned my attention to the front prop shaft, which was already connected to the engines gear box, but when I offered it's rear end to the reversing box there  was a substantial gap, fortunately I then realised that the front end of the rear shaft extended and the gap was closed and making no mistakes this time, the four bolts secured the shaft to the box.

Enlightenment dawned when I turned the rear wheel and both shafts, either side of the reversing box turned, the bikes gearbox was obviously in neutral; I was not going to have to move the engine forward at all, now that's a result!

I took it all apart so that I could paint the support brackets, happy in the knowledge it would take very little effort to connect it all up again. I then set about applying the first coat of Smooth Hammerite to the brackets.

REVERSING FORWARD

A change of plan, as I said, my next job was to fit the exhaust pipe to the right side of Marjorie, but an email from Arthur confirmed that the reversing gearbox and brackets were ready, the two fixing brackets would need painting but if I was prepared to do that, then come and collect.

So I did, the project is really moving forward now. The box is like a piece of sculpture, all shiny black, with highly polished flanges and bolts that will attach the prop shafts. Seems a pity that it will be hidden under the tunnel cover,  but I will be able to visually enjoy it for some time yet, before it is buried from view.

It will be a fairly big job as the engine will need to be craned forward a few inches so that the spline on the front end of the forward shaft can slide into the matching spline in the gear box. Some engine connection will have to be detached, such as fuel lines and throttle cable, but others, like the clutch cable have enough slack to allow the engine to come forward, but it will be gently as you go.

I should explain the need for a reversing gearbox. Almost all motorbikes only have forward gears, the big Honda Gullwing is an exception with a electric reversing arrangement. The original Morgan three wheeler certainly had no reverse, but common sense insisted that you carried a passenger who would climb out and provide the rear propulsion when required. The new Morgan three wheeler has overcome this problem by marrying a motorbike engine to a car gearbox taken from the Mazda MX5, however this marriage is not without a few problems although you don't now need to carry a passenger. My new box sits part way between the engine/gearbox and the back wheel and I simple push a lever forward and the car will go backwards, simples. Need to clear my calender and then I can get started.

HI HO HI HO IT'S OFF TO WORK WE GO

Okay, Okay! I'm back from our extended holiday in Europe and Marjorie has at last seen the light of day, when I swung open the garage door she would have blinked if she had had her eyes fitted, but her wishbones were spread in welcome. Thanks to Doug W and another Anonymous commentator, for urging me to get on with the project.

So work has begun, rather boringly. Yesterday I finished fixing and trimming the bottom J section aluminium strip to the right side. This time I got all the holes in the right place, except two of them coincided with the large rivets that were used to fix the bottom panel in place and the riv-nuts wouldn't sit flush as they fouled the rivets. I tried pulling them up with the riv-nut setting tool, but that didn't work and I had to drill them out. I then put a drill through the riv-nut hole and drilled of some of the protruding rivet and then all went well.

As on the other side, I cut off the excess with a cutting disc in the angle grinder and trimmed both ends to shape with my power file, finally smoothing the edges with emery paper.

Next job is to fit the exhaust pipe clamps, it should be easier this time as I can take the measurements from the other side, at least I know I won't have to struggle to get the pipe to fit onto the header pipe.

I almost forgot to say, my build buddy Pete, put his MG3 in for it's MVSA test and it passed with flying colours, congratulations and well done Pete.

SHROUDED

Yep, I realise that readers are more interested in my three wheeler build than my old Guzzi, but if it hadn't been my love of the Guzzi engine, I probably wouldn't have even thought about building a three wheeler. Also thanks to Ryan Kealy for his positive comments, soon be posting proper blog, hang on in there.

But final update on the old girl, I did get around to changing the instrument shrouds and on removal of the old ones I saw that the warning light housing which supports the shrouds was badly damaged; this would account for the instruments jiggling about at speed.

Fortunately as well as the shrouds, I brought with me from the donor bike, the warning light housing and after carefully noting which warning light went where, I removed the eight lights from the damaged housing and installed them in the undamaged housing.

 

Final result is smart shiny shrouds and instruments that will remain readable at speed.

Regarding Marjorie, I have moved things on a bit whilst in France. I had an email from B-G Racing to say that their detachable steering boss is back in stock. I had previously arranged with Moto-Lita that if I sent them the boss they would make a four spoke wheel to fit the six hole boss. B-G have shipped the boss today to be delivered directly to Moto-Lita and hopefully by the time I return to Blighty the wheel and boss will be there ready for me, once fitted I can make final adjustments to where the switches, warning lights and instruments will fit on the dash.