TO INDICATE OR NOT TO INDICATE

I knew that the electrics would cause a lot of head scratching and I was right. It has been two steps forward and one backwards all the way.

In the last post I said it was time for the column mounted switch to be sorted, so I started to sort it. I snipped of all the wires to the old left handlebar switch, having properly tagged them first. The new switch unit I removed from the steering column and laid out in front of the scuttle giving me plenty of room and light in which to work.and started with the dip/main beam connectors, all went well until I realised that in the main beam position both the main and dip were coming on together. I looked carefully at the switch and saw that one of the contacts had got bent, so no matter at what position the switch was in the dip beam was permanently on, a little deft tweaking of the contact with the pliers resolved this problem.

 

I then started to look where I could connect up the wires for the headlamp flashers, but to no avail, I don't think this function was intended with this switch, but that's easily solved by running the wires to a separate spring loaded switch to be fitted on the dash, behind the steering wheel.

Next were the indicators and again a problem, one of the main 15 amp fuses keeps blowing, I've had the switch apart and I don't think it's there, but when I ran out of fuses  I decided to call it a day and work on something else.

The hooters I took of the old bike and mounted them on the front end under the headlights and I think they look good, I saw that Henry Wright had already done that and if good enough for him, certainly good enough for me. Henry has just got his MG3 through the most stringent of test in Oz, well done Henry. This time all works well with a loud toot with just a push on the end of the indicator stalk.

I then set about the rest of the new instruments. I ran five wires back from my new fuse box, two are permanently live, provided the isolating switch is down, these are for the 12v socket and the clock. The other three wires are for the fuel pump, fuel gauge and the voltmeter, these are only live when the ignition switch is fully on.

I wrapped the cables in the split corrugated sheaf and clipped them up under the glove box. The 12v socket I mounted under the dash just to the right of the transmission tunnel, but out of the way of my left knee when I am entering or exiting the car. Hooray all the gauges worked when I powered up, so now nothing for it but to sort out the indicators as that is the only thing between replacing the fuel pump and tank and firing up the engine for the first time, now that will be a hooray occasion.