The lights for the new gauges and the starter button have now been connected, I didn't take any photos as they would have been meaningless and anyway, somebody would tell me that I shouldn't have done it that way, but I do know I have got a good earth and as long as they all light up, I'll be happy.
The ignition switch and starter button have also been connected, but there is a slight complication with the light switch. The switch on the bike has two inputs, one from the headlamp relay, to switch on the headlamp and the other from the ignition switch for the sidelights, but the new switch for the car has only one position for input. To determine how I could resolve this issue I decided I needed to power up the system, so I ordered a Lucas 038 12v battery, Yea, I know Lucas don't exist any more, but the price was right. I also ordered terminal clamps and insulating covers. They all arrived yesterday, so I set to work.
I had to remove the left side silencer and front louvred panel to get the battery into position, but the whole side panel had to be removed to allow access to the isolating switch. I used my large step drill to cut a sizable hole in the foot well bulkhead, fitted a grommet and after soldering on a 6mm terminal on one end and a 10mm onto the other end of a length of 16mm2 red battery cable, I passed it through the grommet and connected the battery to the isolating switch. The original earth cable was just the right length and a 6mm riv-nut was fitted into the lower chassis rail to which the end of the cable was bolted to.
Battery was now wired up, including the link back to the starter motor. The above photo, looking up to the underside of the isolating switch shows the connections, not complete yet, as I still have to bring two wires through the grommet from the electric box, these wires come from the rectifier and the hazard light switch and need to be connected to the isolating switch, but I am one, 10mm ring terminal missing, Halfords here I come.
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